The test knitters and I are working on my new design – Alohura, which is – over all – a simple pattern, but has a twist right at the beginning.
Alohura is a crescent shawl, started with a tab. The twist is that the tab is worked in a lace pattern in such a way that it blends as seamlessly as possible with the borders.
To achieve that, I needed a provisional cast on and I chose the Turkish one because (once you understand it) it’s one of the simpler cast-ons out there. It’s my favorite cast-on for toe-up socks and it’s possible you’ve come across it before. There are many tutorials available online for it – here is one with photos and here‘s a video.
I decided to make my own photo tutorial, because unlike the ones I linked above, when working with the Turkish cast-on for Alohura, the second half of the sts will remain unworked (spell-check tells me this isn’t a word. Well, now it is.) for a little while.
If you clicked on both links above, you might notice that the way the yarn is wrapped around the needles is different. It has to do with the way you knit. If you knit Eastern uncrossed, like me, you’ll wrap the yarn like it’s done on the second link (and my photos). Otherwise, making a figure 8 – like it’s done in the first link – might be easier for you (as in, the sts won’t be twisted).
BTW, if you click on the photos below, you can see them bigger.
You’ll need two different needles – I’m using two circulars, but you can use dpns. Make a slip knot and place it around one of the needles.
Wrap the yarn around the needle as many times as necessary to get the amount the stitches you need (in this case, 9 times).
On the picture here <–, the metal needle will be called needle 1 and the wooden one, needle 2. The stitch count is done when the yarn is wrapped around both needles – the photo shows the first stitch being done.
The photo on the right –> shows all sts that were cast on (Note that I don’t count the slip knot as a stitch. Well get rid of it later).
Once I wrapped the yarn around both needles as many times as needed, I place the yarn between the two needles.
You will start to work the stitches on needle 1 (the one where the last wrap started).
One tip: if you need to stop working before the cast on is complete (because the cat got into trouble again, the kids set the house on fire, your spouse is asking where is that thing right in front of them…), you can set the yarn between the needles and it won’t unravel.
You’re now ready to start knitting. If you’re using circulars, slide the stitches that won’t be used right now to the cable. If you’re using dpns, place tip protectors on needle 2 and leave it be for now.
The picture on the left <– shows the first row already knit.
If you pay attention, you’ll notice that on this last photo, I’m picking up stitches on the wrong side of the tab – my bad. I just realized it after the pictures were taken, but it still illustrates my point, so I didn’t take any other pictures.
I kept the stitches on the cable of needle 2, but took the slip knot out (the little bump of yarn between my fingers) – if you find it too fiddly to do that, you can just ignore it for now and get rid of it when you start working the stitches on needle 2.
I used needle 2 to pick up (notice I didn’t work the loops yet) two loops from the side of the tab. If you’re using dpns, pick up those loops using a third needle and a fourth one to knit.
Reiterating, work row 4 of the pattern on needle 1, work the loops you picked up from the side of the tab and then row 4 again on the stitches that are on needle 2.